Friday, September 23, 2005

Mr. Mom comes to Deutschland

We still love daycare, but last night was a little weird.

It was billed as "Elternabend," which is German for parents evening, but in fact it should have been called "Muetterabend," as I was the only dad, sitting around a teeny table on teeny kids' chairs with 10 moms. We were there to talk about issues and events at the daycare center.

The first item of business concerned "du" vs. "Sie" (the informal vs. the formal address in German). Eve's teacher, whom I love, got into trouble with her boss because she's been using the informal "du" with us parents. The informal style of address completely fits both her personality and the context of our interactions. This woman spends almost as much time with my daughter as I do, wipes her butt, stresses over her moods and her rashes, etc. etc. We've gotten to know each other quite well. Why shouldn't we "du?" At IKEA, 16-year old cashiers I've never laid eyes on address me with the "du."

Apparently it's a ten-year old policy at the daycare center, and the director has decreed there are to be no exceptions. I wanted to ask if we should perhaps also click our heels together when we greet each other, but I held back. I'm not sure that would have made me very popular.

Later the topic came up of what to do for the Christmas party this year. I was going to suggest something with silly hats, colorful cookies, and cheezy music, but the teacher said she thought the children should do a nativity play, and the assembled moms thought this a great idea. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, one mom said. They can just present the characters, and someone can read from Mathew or the Evangelicals.

This conversation took me by surprise because a) it's a state-subsidized daycare center, b) three of the twelve kids in our group are Muslim or Jewish, and c) god-fearing Christians in Berlin are supposed to be about as numerous as Satanic fetishistic performance artists in Fenton, Missouri. But I stayed out of the discussion and was spacing out, dreaming of Polish pastries, I think, until the teacher (the one I love) suddenly pointed to me and said "Warren can play Jesus! He looks like Jesus, doesn't he?!"

I think she was joking, but I wasn't sure. "Ja," I said, "and I'm a Jew too! Just like Jesus!"

Someone laughed and, fortunately, the topic soon changed. After a while, we started talking about the trouble we're all having getting our kids to eat right and sleep through the night. Finally I felt like just one of the girls.

Photos: Warsaw

The Countess von Rosenblumitzky in her hotel room



Polish school children at the statue of a Polish hero









Thursday, September 22, 2005

Crisis and Confidence: Berlin vs. Warsaw

Just back from a few days in Warsaw. The contrast with Berlin is striking. Warsaw is the picture of energy and vitality. It doesn't seem to matter how their upcoming election turns out. (In fact, no one seems to care). Berlin feels nervous and tired, and the uncertain election results have ushered in the promise of two more years of collective indigestion. It's like some great reversal of the 19th century cliche in which the young and dynamic West was zooming away from the decadent East.

You can almost hear the Polish border guards chuckling as you cross that line. "Who's decadent now, Werner?"

The most popular German newspaper just put Gerhard Schroeder on its cover photoshopped into the dress of a Roman Caesar. Yipes! But Rome didn't fall in a day...

Boomtown Warsaw

Warsaw is dizzy with progress. Everywhere there are building cranes and the sound of hammering. The new architecture is bold and confident. The office towers have eye-catching shapes and colors. Even the smaller, more modest buildings demonstrate a love of innovation and perhaps a thirst for change. The city has none of the eager-not-to-offend "historic-looking" architecture that currently plagues American cities. No fake brick. No over-polite efforts to "fit into the neighborhood." The Poles seem like they enjoy taking chances, like they believe in the future.

Berlin's also got great new architecture, but there is little building going on at the moment and hardly anything in the works. Even the new, mammoth train station going up near Berlin's government district has a melancholy glow. The building stands alone. Nothing has happened yet in the way of economic development around the station. Meanwhile, the Zoo Station- once a symbol of Berlin's crazy energy -- is going to lose its intercity traffic. Even if the new train station is a success, an old, established commercial district faces decline.

In Warsaw, the go-getter capitalist energy can be felt on the street. Men in beautifully tailored suits, with stylish accessories, bound along the pavement. (Do they all get handmaid suits? Why do they look so fabulous?) A mix of international chain stores and local independent propietors compete for your attention with bright, catchy displays. At seemingly every busy intersection there are men and women passing out advertisements or hawking some service.

The food has a similar air of freshness and vitality. Warsaw's restaurant scene has become very international, with Thai, Japanese, etc. though we stuck to Polish cooking. It turned out to be a gazzilion times more flavorful, fresh, and creative than any of the Polish food I had in Chicago growing up. The chefs are jazzing up things like beet borscht, gonkula, and roast duck. It was heavy with tradition (and fat) but somehow still elegant. And the pastries were incredible. Cheesecakes, strudels, flourless chocolate cake, plum cake, paczki, and the best danish I ever had in my life.

Again, I contrast this with Berlin, where there's also been a renaissance of sorts for native cuisine, but the spirit of innovation rarely goes beyond a few sprigs of arugula. It may be that the top restaurants are great (we can't afford 'em), but the stuff for regular folk doesn't offer much inspiration.

Winners and Losers

So Poland looks good - at least at first - but there's no escaping the sense of one people divided sharply into winners and losers. The new business elites are Polish, but so are the maids cleaning your hotel room, so are the guys hitting you up for change, and the women squatting in the entryway to the churches. There are almost no immigrants - no minorities stepping in to do the dirty work and keep up the underground economy. Perhaps it is because of this that the poverty and the crime is much more self-evident than in Berlin. A friend of ours was confronted by a knife-wielding man in the subway. Another friend witnessed four teenagers beating a guy in the street. Our hotel had security walking up and down our hallway throughout the day. Police were everywhere in the city.

They can't isolate and contain the "criminal elements" in Warsaw the way they do in western cities. There is no "other" to stick in a ghetto somewhere.

While Poles have plenty of reasons to be excited about the future, they also seem obsessed with history. They are furious that Germany is considering the creation of a "Center against Expulsion" in Berlin to memorialize the fate of Germans at the end of World War II expelled from lands now belonging to Poland. They are scared of the Russians, don't like the Ukranians, have some bone to pick with Belarus. They are angry at Germany for failing to support a common "European" policy against Russia, even as they refuse to apologize for supporting America's Iraq policy against French and German objections. (They see America as the "indispensable nation" for protecting Europe against a revived and revanchist Russia.)

And what about the legacy of Jewish history in Warsaw? Though Jews represented 1/4 of the pre-war population in the city, it's difficult to find any acknowledgement of their presence that isn't at least borderline offensive. A bookstore on the most prominent shopping strip advertises books by a notorious Holocaust denier. A shop on the main square sells paintings of "Jewish money-lenders." Street-sellers hawk little wooden figurines of rabbis and klezmer musicians.

Polish elections are about to happen and interest is dismally low -- another contrast with Germany. Voter participation has been consistently under 50% for parliamentary elections. The government decision to join America's "coalition of the willing" was hardly discussed in parliament and got no attention in the press -- until Polish troops started getting killed. The public's paranoia toward the Russians, simmering anger at the Germans, and generalized distrust of east-European neighbors crowds out other issues.

Maybe none of that matters -- politics, history, international relations - if the economy grows fast enough and the paczkis are still fresh and tasty. The "new Europe," as Rumsfeld calls it, is going to invent its own way of getting things done. But I'd rather be in Berlin right now and in the future: decadent or otherwise.

Sunday, September 18, 2005

Ramba Zamba: The Theater Troupe

The Ramba Zamba Theater Company in Berlin

The Third Reich and the Mentally Disabled

No one seems to know how many mentally retarded people were murdered in Europe by the Germans. Historians frequently write that 200,000 people were killed in the euthanasia program, but that number includes the physically disabled, psychotics, and people with dementia. There is still no authorative history of “the feeble-minded” in the Nazi era.

So it is hardly surprising that even most Germans have only a vague idea of what happened to retarded citizens under the Nazis. There are a number of things about this sordid story, however, that deserve to be widely known. First, that support for euthanizing mentally disabled people was an international phenomenon. There was vigorous support for euthanasia in the United States, England, and elsewhere in Europe around the First World War. Secondly, that in Germany even many advocates for the retarded accepted the idea that some lives were “not worth living” and that individuals who manifested no “will to live” should be killed. The debate in Germany prior to the Nazi seizure of power concerned not whether there should be euthanasia, but where to draw the line, i.e. who exactly should be killed. German advocates for the retarded courageously defended the rights of many or even most mentally disabled citizens, but they conceded the point that state-sponsored killing was not an inherently bad idea.

Finally, there was the role of parents. A remarkable survey conducted in the early 1920’s by the director of a German asylum for the retarded found that a clear majority of his patients’ fathers approved hypothetically of the “painless shortening” of their children’s lives. (The mothers were asked only indirectly.) Many parents stated that the best thing might be if their children were euthanized without their knowledge and consent. To what extent did these parents later acquiesce in the Nazis’ actual program of mass murder? Really, we don’t know. There are plenty of examples of protest against the Nazis’ euthanasia campaign, but we lack a broader picture of how German families related to their mentally disabled members and how their attitudes changed over time.

Overall, the historical literature is mostly silent about the lives of the mentally disabled and their place in German society.


Ramba Zamba

This silence is the context for the Ramba Zamba theater company in Berlin. Ramba Zamba is a German slang term for raucousnous, chaos, and madness. Ramba Zamba might offer the best possible start for what the Germans call Vergangenheitsaufarbeitung – working through the legacy of the past.

The theater troupe is made up of actors with mental disabilities. But it’s not what you think. They are not doing feel-good theater. It’s not some mawkish, politically correct variety show in which socially underprivileged amateurs plead for public affirmation by pretending to be “real actors.” It’s not about self-expression for the sake of self-expression.

Ramba Zamba does real theater.

Does that mean it’s just as good as “normal theater?” Not if by “normal” we mean a reassuringly familiar story presented by actors who look and sound like they just came off the set of a network sitcom. Ramba Zamba is avante garde, which means that it’s constantly breaking the rules about how to entertain. They’re not afraid to make the audience squirm or laugh at things that aren’t supposed to be funny, or even force the audience to puzzle about what's going on on stage. If you are receptive to them, Ramba Zamba destroys the very idea that there is such a thing as “normal” theater and “normal” actors.

In conventional theater, the audience is supposed to lose itself in the play. You forget that you are at the theater or having a night on the town. You forget that actor X is really too old or too young for the part, or that he’s a black man playing an Elizabethan courtier or a white man playing an African soldier. At Ramba Zamba, however, you rarely forget that the actors are mentally disabled. The company doesn't want you to just sit back and be entertained. They challenge the audience with uncomfortable images and ideas.


Medea by Ramba Zamba

Recently I saw their production of Medea. That's Medea by Euripides, the one I was supposed to read in college.

The play unfolds on a largely bare, open stage in a small, modest theater. Upstage there is a wall of corrugated metal with one opening, a sliding door 6 feet in the air on a small, elevated platform. There are no stairs to the platform, which is surrounded by a metal railing.

Slowly the stage fills up with men and women dressed as vagabonds. They are all shapes and sizes, but mostly heavy set and relatively small. A few of the actors are recognizably down-syndrome. Their clothes are ratty, patched together outfits. Some carry beat up suitcases or backpacks. They shuffle upstage and look longingly at the door above them.

Finally one actor clambers up the wall and onto the platform. He pulls open the sliding door and disappears inside. The crowd murmurs. He returns shortly and addresses them.

The young man, who has down's syndrome, is difficult to understand, though his stage presence is remarkable. He is confident, direct, in control, utterly in character. You crane your neck and concentrate hard to understand him, but strangely the challenge doesn’t bother you. You concentrate, listen, adapt to his cadences and pronounciations.

The young man tells the assembled crowd what he learned from behind the wall. Corinth is a beautiful city. There is bountiful food, lovely houses and streets. There are lovely theaters and a ready audience.

The vagabonds are excited. It turns out they are travelling actors and now, finally, they can imagine settling down and performing on a real stage, with real lights, stage hands, etc.

The young man on the platform interrupts to remind them about the required documents. With wonderful comic timing, he goes through the list of forms that will need to be filled out, dropping sheets of paper to the crowd as he enumerates them. You’ll just need to submit your:

  • residency registration
  • Application for asylum
  • Application for permission to work
  • Proof of Driver’s license
  • Proof of graduation from an accredited high school
  • etc. etc. etc.

The actors scramble for the sheets of paper and groan collectively as they realize that they'll never in fact be able to enter the city through the legitimate channels. A mysterious blind man advises them that they might get into the city if they performed a play here and now, preferably a play with blood and guts and lots of royalty. He suggests they perform Medea. The actors have never heard of the play, but they like the idea of a little sex and gore and a few kings.

They create a stage by brushing together a great circle of dirt. That's where the action will play. They then begin arguing with each other over who will play the leading roles. Three women vie for the part of Medea. One of them notes apologetically that she is fat, but she has just lost weight and will be losing more. Another woman argues that Medea herself was obviously quite plump, and therefore SHE should get the part, since she is plenty fat and plans to stay that way. "But I'm STILL fatter than you," says the first woman. "I should be Medea." The fight continues until it is decided that all three women will play Medea. Three men emerge to play the part of Jason, and this is how the play proceeds, with three different couples acting out the story in different scenes.

The couples are very different from each other. One pair, severely retarded, performs the story of Medea and Jason in an extremely simple, slow-moving, yet lyrical fashion. We see them in love. We see tensions brewing. The simplicity of their gestures and the relative lack of language makes the story all the more universal. It's like a slow dance.

The second couple is far more verbal and physical. There's a kind of explosiveness to Jason that feels like pent up frustration, eagerness to get away to join some other world. With the third couple, Jason is a smooth charmer, while Medea is messy, unhappy, catatonic. Jason is afflicted by the dirt at home (a humorous point since of course the stage consists only of dirt and Jason is wearing a Don Johnson-esque white suit) and medea's failure to maintain order. "Why can't you be normal?!" he yells at her, frustrated.

More

Friday, September 16, 2005

Interesting Statistics

Number of inmates in German prisons: 71,000*
Total German population: 82 million
That's roughly: 1 out of every 1154 people

Number of prison inmates in the State of Missouri: 30,600**
Total Missouri population: 5.7 milion
That's roughly: 1 out of every 185 people (or 2 people from each section of Powell Sympony Hall)

Europe bashers have been citing a recent statistic by the Harris polling group purporting to show that Americans are "more contented with their lives" than Europeans in general and Germans in particular.

It's not clear whether the Harris poll included some of the 2 million Americans sitting in the can. I imagine they would say that such folks are "stastically insignificant."


*2002 stats
**2004 stats

Thursday, September 15, 2005

One Cultural Stereotype Confirmed

Left my wallet on the bus (not my fault, swear). 50 Euros in it, plus 21 Euros worth of unused transit passes.

Someone -- I think it was the driver - tracked down my cellphone number, called and left a message a few hours later saying that the wallet had been found.

Picked it up the next morning at the Berlin transit lost and found.

The contents seemed strangely out of place, but in fact everything was there. Money included. It was just all much better organized than it's ever been.

Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Photos: Going places

On our way to daycare. That's her prized (Montana) bear she's holding. Kein Kita ohne Bär.


Going nowhere in particular:

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Personal Life: Hallelujahs and Diatribes

We're in love with German daycare. We pay 160 Euros a month. (The Director went into aploplexy when I told her what daycare costs in St. Louis). The building is light, airy, clean and inviting. The classrooms open up onto the back of the building, where there is an alluring playground that feels like an Italian townsquare for the under- 4-set. The facility has its own chef, and the food is fabulous. For lunch, the kids eat things like cauliflower in hollandaise sauce and spaetzle with feta cheese. Eve has become a little gourmand and at home seems to give a resigned sigh if we dare to open a jar of baby food.

The daycare workers are happy, devoted to the kids, and proud of their jobs. Many of them have been with this daycare center for years.And the kids are diverse. Eve's group of 11 includes children from Africa, Jamaica, Turkey, and Argentina.

I drop Eve off each day and find myself wanting to stay. (Perhaps if I could do daycare again, I'd get everything right this time.....)

Nicole spent most of the summer in intensive German classes. She's made stunning progress, and I can no longer get away with making up wholly arbitrary translations of people's comments to us when I have no idea what they've been saying. Since August, she's been doing a comprehensive seminar on German politics and society with the other Bosch Fellows. (In German!) She starts her first internship in October, which will be with the Institute for Urban Studies. The Institute's theme this year is "shrinking cities." Apparently Berlin has been losing population over the past decade, and the urban planners are getting nervous. They're afraid that Berlin could be going the way of Detroit or, well, St. Louis. Nicole, formerly of the St. Louis Development Corporation, may be thrust into the position of resident expert or dark prophet of doom. So far in Berlin we've had little sense of deja vu, except that tonight I had pizza so bad, with cheese so gummy, that I did for a moment think I was back in St. Louis, munching at Imo's.

But the Berliners really are worried about things. The city is massively in debt. The public schools have fallen precipitously in quality and are allegedly plagued with disorder. Many parents have started sending their kids to private schools or moving to the burbs -- mainly to get away from the Turks and Arabs and other "Others." The media speak constantly of "crisis."

For us it's funny what counts as a crisis. The crime rate is a joke compared to the U.S., particularly if one speaks of violent crime. There is relatively little pan-handling, public drunkenness, or drug-abuse. The museums, operas, symphonies, and theaters are fantastic and -- though threatened with collapse - still going strong. Public parks are dirtier than they used to be, but are still attractive places for families.

Public transportation is a marvel. We've always known about the great German U-Bahn and el-trains, but the buses have been a revelation. They are clean, quiet, comfortable and on-time. Everybody uses them. (Giving the lie to the American claim that the middle classes "won't ride buses"). The best thing for us is that they have rear entrances for strollers and wheelchairs, and the entire bus drops down on hydraulics almost to ground level at each stop. Inside the bus is a place to latch your stroller, so it doesn't roll. We've yet to miss having a car.

Which makes me think again of St. Louis. When you compare German and American cities, it's odd that the Germans are constantly wringing their hands about "crises," while we Americans just plow forward with our famous and self-congratulatory optimism. Often this summer, I thought of the bored faces of people on Kingshighway in St. Louis waiting endlessly for buses on a hot summer day or a cold rainy evening in winter. Why DO they put up with it? Like the Indian tribal chief who visited 18th century London, I sometimes get this naive sense of wonder at why the poor folks in America don't simply rise up and slit the rich folks' throats. (Well, I guess sometimes they do). Poor people in Germany would never put up with the things that poor Americans usually assume are just a "natural" part of life.
In St. Louis we spend hundreds of millions of dollars to build one puny light-rail line from whitey-stop #1 to whitey-stop #2, mainly so a playgroup of wealthy suburbanites can appease their lust for choo-choo trains, while all of public transportation is otherwise a creaking disaster. In Germany that would never happen -- not because the rich people here are nicer or more empathic, but because everyone would be afraid of the consequences.

But really I should get back to pizza....

German Election: The Socialist Come-Back

Newspapers report that the SPD seems to have made a remarkable comeback over the past month. The Conservatives (CDU/CSU) blew a massive lead, and even in coalition with the Liberals they no longer seem likely to gain a majority.

This could mean a grand coalition between the Conservatives and the SPD, or maybe the SPD momentum will continue, and Gerhard Schroeder will pull off an incredible upset.

I should be happy. The SPD is committed to most of the things I find worthwhile in this country: a strong social welfare system, more or less universal health coverage, unionism, affordable daycare. The Conservatives are wedded to a suspiciously American-looking vision of economic reform. They want greater "labor flexibility" (companies should be able to fire people at will), a simpler tax code (a big break for the rich, a smaller break for the middle class, and higher consumption taxes for everyone), welfare costs should be contained (toss people off the rolls when they won't work).

But it's really hard to get excited about any continuing roll for the SPD in government. They're sooooo sleazy. Schroeder seems like a naked opportunist, a pure politician in the model of Slick Willie Clinton at his worst. Overall the SPD seems less interested in helping the little guy, than in preventing change. Meanwhile, the economy is a mess; the unions seem narrowly interested in protecting their own; foreign policy lurches from one embarassment to another.

Good thing I can't vote.

Monday, September 12, 2005

Eve in August. There weren't many days when she could wear a real summer dress. Old friends may notice that her eyes are getting darker.

Why Blog?

Because I'm 40, and it's good to feel trendy now and then.
Because I need to keep writing, writing, writing....
Because my friends almost surely don't want to get all this blather clogging up their email inboxes...
Because somebody somewhere wants to hear my thoughts on German politics, Berlin culture, and my struggles to find decent fish, great chocolate, and reasonable vanilla ice cream.
Because everyone wants to hear about Eve, as she bursts into toddlerhood.